TBP: Most Significant Teton Climbing Achievments

The Most Significant Achievements in Teton Climbing History

Within each of the following achievements there is a story. In some cases, the story has several chapters that correspond to how a particular climb or our perception of a mountain evolves over time. For example, the first ascent of an unclimbed peak is often made by the easiest route possible. Over time more difficult ascents are sought out; routes may eventually be free-soloed, or climbed during the wintertime, or as a race against the clock. Sometimes they are even descended on skis or snowboards. Each of the following achievements fits one or both of these criteria:

?? It contributed significantly to the evolution of climbing and/or ski mountaineering in the US. ??
?? It is recognized as an “American classic.” ??

1. The Enclosure (13,280+‘), South Couloir (Third Class)

• First ascent unknown; presumably made by either by one or more Native Americans, or by a trapper named Michaud (last name unknown; possibly LeClaire), who was reported to have attempted the Grand Teton in ca. 1843.

2. Grand Teton (13,770‘), Owen-Spalding (II 5.4)

• First Ascent (Claimed): Nathaniel Langford, James Stevenson (July 29, 1872)
• First Ascent (Certain): William Owen, Franklin Spalding, Frank Petersen, John Shive (August 11, 1898)
• First Female Ascent: Albert R. Ellingwood, Eleanor Davis (August 27, 1923)
• First Winter Ascent: Paul and Eldon Petzoldt, Fred Brown (December 19, 1935)

3. Grand Teton, Exum Ridge (II 5.5 [Upper]; III 5.7 [Complete])

• First Ascent (Upper): Glenn Exum (July 15, 1931)
• First Ascent (Complete): Jack Durrance, Kenneth Henderson (September 1, 1936)

4. Grand Teton, North Ridge (IV 5.8)

• First Ascent: Robert Underhill, Fritiof Fryxell (July 19, 1931)
• First Free Ascent: Fritz Wiessner, William House, Percy Olton, Beckett Howorth (August 30, 1936)
• First Winter Ascent: George Lowe, Dave Carman (March 20–22, 1975)

• First Ascent: Jack Durrance, Paul and Eldon Petzoldt (August 25, 1936)
• Direct Finish: Richard Emerson, Willi Unsoeld, Leigh Ortenburger (July 24, 1953)
• First Manless Ascent: Irene Ortenburger, Sue Swedlund (August 17, 1965)
• First Winter Ascent: George Lowe, Greg and Mike Lowe, Rick Horn (February 28–March 2, 1968)
• First Winter Ascent, Direct Finish: Alex Lowe, Jack Tackle (January 1–3, 1987)
• First Winter Solo Ascent, Direct Finish: Alex Lowe (one-day ascent, January, 1992)

6. Grand Teton, West Face (IV 5.8)

• First Ascent: Jack Durrance, Henry Coulter (August 14, 1940)
• First Winter Ascent: George Lowe, Jeff Lowe (February 19–24, 1972)

7. Mt. Moran (12,605‘), Direct South Buttress (V 5.8 A1 or V 5.12-)

• First Ascent: Richard Emerson, Don Decker, Leigh Ortenburger (August 29–30, 1953)
• First Free Ascent: Stan Mish, Hal Gribble (July 3, 1979)
• First Winter Ascent: Hans Johnstone, Mark Newcomb, Renny Jackson (March 5–7, 2001)

8. Jenny Lake Boulders, Red Cross Rock, Gill Problem (V9 or 5.13+)

• First Ascent: John Gill (August 1959)

9. Grand Teton, Black Ice Couloir (IV AI3+ 5.7)

• First Ascent: Ray Jacquot, Herb Swedlund (July 29, 1961)

10. The Grand Traverse (V+ 5.8)- A traverse of Teewinot Mountain, East Prong, Mt. Owen, Grand Teton, Middle Teton, South Teton, Ice Cream Cone, Gilkey Tower, Spalding Peak, Cloudveil Dome and Nez Perce.

• First Ascent (Nez Perce to Teewinot): Allen Steck, Dick Long, John Evans, (August 12, 1963)
• First Ascent (Teewinot to Nez Perce): Jim McCarthy, Lito Tejada-Flores (August 17–19, 1966)
• Speed Ascent: Alex Lowe (8:40, August 1988)
• Speed Record: Rolando Garibotti (6:49, mid-August, 2000)
• First Winter Ascent: Mark Newcomb, Stephen Koch (January 17­–19, 2004); Hans Johnstone, Renny Jackson (January 17–20, 2004)

11. Grand Teton, Upper East Face Snowfield/Stettner Couloir (II AI2+ 5.7)

• First Ski Descent: Bill Briggs (June 16, 1971)

12. Grand Teton, Northeast Couloir (aka Hossack-MacGowan) (IV AI2+ 5.6)

• First Winter Ascent and First Ski Descent: Hans Johnstone, Mark Newcomb (February 16, 1996)