Reed and I were walking by 7 am yesterday to ski the Apocalypse Couloir on Prospectors Mountain. I say walking because the Death Canyon road had been plowed, but was still closed to cars, making the approach and exit a bit annoying.
The Apocalypse is a Teton classic for sure, and one of the steeper ones at that. Depending on conditions, one can expect to rappel, downclimb, side-slip, or ski the narrow, icy section. It doesn’t get much sun, so it holds good snow, but most of the time you will be showered on by spin-drift and dodge ice-chunks on ascent and descent.
The snow pack is very thin here in the Tetons and we had to walk with our skis on our backs down the dry switchbacks to Phelps Lake. We had to search for a little while for a suitable spot to cross the creek as well…adding to the fun! The sun was warming things up quick, but the wind was keeping the snow cool, and we booted up into the couloir.
The occasional river of slough would run by as we climbed up, into the narrow section. We kept our eyes peeled for larger debris coming down, but we felt we were relatively safe for now.Occasionally, spin-drift would fill the air, but not as bad as I have experienced here before
I pulled out my ice ax once the slope steepened, and I was glad I had my steel crampons today, as the front -points on my aluminum once are getting pretty short and worn down from walking on too many rocks.
The couloir chokes, and holds ice well into the summer. The ice was a nice blue color in the depths of the narrows. It was cool to look at as we climbed with our Whippets and ice axes.
The snow got increasingly better the higher we climbed, and soon the powder was up to our knees in spots. The Apocalypse is much longer than it looks from the valley floor. It doubles back towards the southeast, and continues for another few hundred feet until it peters out into two steep chimneys that don’t seem to hold enough snow to ski.
We climbed as high as we could ski from, and had great views of the south side of Buck Mountain and into No Woods Basin. I’ve tried skiing in No Woods Basin once before and ended up with a sprained ankle. Not enough to keep me from going back though…looks great from here!
There was conveniently a nice alcove that had formed between the snow and rock. It was more than roomy enough for us to spread out as we took off our crampons and stashed our ice axes, getting ready to ski the goods.
There was also some quick spelunking to be had, as our little nook continued up, deeper into the mountain. Not wanting to disturb any critters, we stayed away…and focused on the task at hand.
The snow felt OK on the way up, mostly good, stable powder on a firm crust, but a few slabs lingered in spots. We skied in classic leap-frog style, from island of safety to island of safety, pulling out of the fall-line as the slough built up and threatened to pull us down.
The upper section of the Apocalypse is the best skiing in my option. It is the steepest section and provides an elevator shaft feeling.
The upper section sort of ‘slam-dunks’ you into the main, Apocalypse couloir. Almost steep enough for ‘kung-fu’ turns, but not quite.
Once back in the middle section, the snow became a bit more variable, which is nice because this is where you really don’t want to screw up. A tumble here would leave you pin-balling down the mountain and into the ice below.
This is the third time I’ve skied the Apocalypse Couloir. The first time my partner and I down-climbed the icy narrows…like today. On my second descent, I was with Reed again, and we were able to side-step down the crux with our skis on. It was nice cuz putting on and taking of your crampons and skis takes time, and this isn’t the place where you want to linger.
We battled a few runnels and ice blobs below the choke, but some good snow (that we had pushed down from above) had accumulated, and softened up the ride. The snow smoothed a bit as we skied down to our skins and into the sun. Although it feels like May here in the Tetons, good snow can still be found.
Nice job Steve & Reed! Beautiful photos of a super sexy couloir. On the walk in, I hope you Teton Styled it…
Another excellent post. Great looking line!
Steve, whats the pitch at the choke?
That cooler looks sweet. I cant believe the choke is a ski through, considering our snowpack at that elevation. Nice job gettin’ some.
WOW! We really do live in the most beautiful place. What an amazing coulior.Great job.
Andrew,
Is there any other way???
Rida,
Pitch isn’t too steep at the choke….maybe 60?
The Apocalypse is an awesome line for those willing to hike in the line of fire. A true classic! 😀
Oh that looks good! I’m just going to have to learn to live vicariously through others this season…
SICCCCCCCCCCCCCKbird!!!!!
Can’t believe I missed that one. That’ll be on the short list for next season when the thumb is healed and ready. BTW…the ice looks PHAT!
Steve, thanks but no thanks for your post. I love the photos and the conditions report, but there are certain places that are sacred to me and many others who do not appreciate their disclousure. The Apocalypse is one of those places. So are tours that require creative access. Selfishly, I prefer to keep them to myself and to others who are willing to find them on their own.
We all love those sacred places, those hidden gems you only get to know because you were willing to adventure into the unknown. You find them after pouring over the maps, waiting for those perfect conditions, trial and error, sweat, and waist deep trail-breaking. Maybe your first time there you get avalanched 500 feet head over heels, snow in the ears and throat, and live to come ski on a better day. Instead of ascending up into the maw, you find the safer entrance from above and rap in to the hidden couloir.
And then, you and your friends don’t even have discuss whether or not to divuluge your hard won knowledge, you don’t end up talking about it until you decide to go again and perhaps bring another friend along. Who knows, you might run into someone on the way who is adventuring, finding the right path into the mountains to ski the same line you are. And that is great for all and the way I think it should be.
After comtemplating a photo book of the Tetons, I’ve decided myself to reserve my images for myself and friends. I was tempted, no doubt, to open up the imagination of all skiers with images of boundless lines, secret gullies and faces. But, I won’t. I’ve drawn my line. I’ll let them find it on their own.
So, I hope you find your own way to creatively continue your blog in a way that does not divulge all.
Thanks for reading, Evan
Thanks for your comments Evan.
I’ve been approached by a few people on this general subject, and thank you for addressing it appropriately…with civility.
While we all would like to think that we live in this small utopia, set aside for ourselves…and ourselves only, this is not reality. The mountains are here for everyone to enjoy. It is one thing to read and talk about skiing something…but it is another to actually follow through with it.
I, like you, consider the entire GTNP a sacred place, unfortunately I feel very few of these places are considered a true secret anymore…Apocalypse Couloir being one of them. It is in full view from the road/highway, and stories of descents and ascents in this couloir don the pages of at least two local guidebooks…one for skiing and one for climbing. And I believe pictures of people skiing/riding it have previously been published in nationally distributed skiing magazines.
I find it hard to believe that the dedicated Teton backcountry skier’s first introduction to the Apocalypse Couloir is through this website. I know I scoured the guidebook pages over and over before I made an attempt…and it took two tries to succeed. Yes, these photo’s may tempt skiers to go and ski it for themselves, but if this website motivates them, that is fine by me.
What is the difference between this website and many of the ski magazines out there, who talk about trips and descents? Or how about ski movies that show amazing descents in our home terrain. I think these media avenues are no different from this website and its trip reports. Some people I know even get paid to take people to these special places and divulge the goods in far worse fashion than myself, and I believe it is because they want to share the mountain experience with others…no harm there.
Evan, I hope you will continue to visit TetonAT.com with an open mind. I try to put these trip reports together without giving away many of the specifics, but some of it can be subjective I guess. It’s really just about showing cool ski photos in amazing terrain, which luckily we can find in our backyard. I started this website as a way to document my passion for skiing and the trips that I go on. I’m sorry if it can sometimes read like a guidebook.
Thanks for visiting,
Steve Romeo
We’ll get it next year Brian!!!
How’s the one handed skiing going?
steve,
your the man. nice pictures. we need more people in the tetons. as for people crying about your posts, keep crying and dont go to the site. there are no real big secrets. just shut up, and go get it. 95% of this valley wouldent even attempt it. there is more than enough room one out there for everyone. this site is for stoke, not whining. this is one of the best sites on the internet. take your money, and go guide some shleps. im impresed with the reed….you have been getting after it the last few years. keep it up boys. we all love it.
tat
Evan’s comments are thought provoking but, ultimately, don’t resonate for me. It’s a discussion worth having, however, if only to muse about our passion. Humor me.
First, I agree with Steve…there are few great lines in the valley that are more obvious than the Apocalypse. It happens to be very special to Evan, “sacred” even, but that does not change its high-profile position. Plus, who doesn’t want to ski a line with a name as cool as that?
Certainly, Steve’s writing about it makes it more accessible and less mysterious which, some would say, takes away from the experience of skiing it. Ultimately, that judgment only matters to the one doing the skiing. I would also argue that the skiers who feel compelled to go for it after reading a post are looking for and are going to get an experience different from Evan’s, even if they are unaware of it. These are not skiers pouring over maps and religiously tracking conditions as Evan and similar Teton explorers do. Some of us may think that a less ambitious skier’s experience is diminished compared to what a pioneer might find going into the unknown. Perhaps, but, hopefully, they are having fun in a way that matters to them.
There is also a big difference between having the beta, in this case, Steve’s post, and going out and skiing the goods. Many may read but far fewer will actually put the sweat and effort forth and expose themselves to the significant risk to get up and down a given line. Most know where the Hossack-McGowen is but…anyone???…Bueller???
The other beautiful thing about skiing these lines after others is that once another storm comes in and covers the tracks the experience is fresh again and, hopefully, more meaningful for the next skier. This is what makes ski alpinism so cool and different from, say, climbing first ascents where the passage of the first ascent team may be evident forever.
This discussion is nothing new in the mountain community and, equally so, the surfing communtity. For climbers, everytime another guide book comes out cries of “foul!” can be heard echoing off the canyon walls. At least no one is slashing your tires in the Death Canyon parking lot…yet. Thank god that dick head over in Game Creek doesn’t ski. To quote Dennis Miller, “A developer is someone who wants a house in the woods. An environmentalist is someone who already has a house in the woods. We Teton skiers are sounding a little selfish.
The internet makes opinionating so much easier now. This blog is not immune to accusations regarding the author’s motivations. Egoism? Stoke? Fodder for the arm chairists? Whatever. When a cue starts forming on my favorite lines I reserve the right to change my mind. Until then, I will enjoy the stories and pics and provide some of my own when my wounds heal.
Next?
You’re no slouch either Tat!!! I wouldn’t even think about doing half of the things you do.
Thanks for the support fellas. 😀
Regarding Evan’s remarks…
As a surfer in California who has watched great spot after great spot crowd out so badly that you have to bring a posse and a plan if you want to get on any waves, I can really appreciate your concern about sharing local knowledge and what it has the potential to bring. But as someone relatively new to glisse alpinism (actually, technically backcountry snowboarding) I look around at the vastness of all these mountain ranges and I just see virtually unlimited riding possibilities.
I’m totally awed and inspired by this descent, but like most people I do not have the skills to attempt it. It just inspires me to know what’s possible and what I can work toward someday. But even if I do aquire those skills, there are a lot of lines to ride between California and Wyoming.
I don’t know.. I admire Evan’s desire to protect his sacred places but something that technical doesn’t seem like it is in so much danger of being overrun. Every mountain range has some high-profile stuff that gets overrun and that’s just a sad fact. But to keep it in perspective, 10 other people on a honkin’ moutain is a far cry from 50 people on the same little point break.
Storn
Storn
I’m not too familiar with surfing, but two (or more!) people in a couloir way above you dropping ice, snow or rock, can be a bit on the spicy side sometimes. Unfortunately while mountains are generally big in terms of surface area, it only takes one other guy booting up the same funnel to make it too dangerous to spend time beneath them (if you decide to go from the bottom in the first place!). Same concept for more conventional powder skiing when there numerous parties out and about, all crossing under and over eachother in avalanche terrain.
So in the sense that Grand Teton National Park is about 13,526,076,960 sqaure feet, and that you really only need about 1000 square feet to make a ski turn (100’x100′), then that is only 13.5 million people! Nothing! I can’t wait; all the loose rock will be gone, and the mountians will be worn down to nubs…the size of nipples on a chiuaua!
I have to say, I agree with Evan, on two levels. First, for obvious reasons, the asthetic experinece is instantly diminished when you finally make it out somewhere cool that you’ve beenAnd second, regardless of how (in)competent the other parties you encounter are, certain types of skiing (glorified in this blog!) are always more dangerous when there are other people around.
So before you jump into your next sweet coolee, wonder what it would be like if there was another party an hour ahead of you. Would they be out of the way yet? Or those guys right behind you at the parking lot. Might they jump in on top of you?
So maybe it is purely selfish of me, but I hope that indoor skiing thing they have in Japan and indoor rock climbing really catch on. I reckon there will always be people who like to fly by themselves, and those who would rather dish out and pick up their experiences at a buffett line.
I like cooking for myself and a group of close friends.
And Steve as to your questions about how this blog is differnt than past hype in magazines and what not, I think it is jsut in sheer accessibility and volume available from the internet. Videos came out once a year, and magazines once a month. Effects we have seen previously are already happening at previously unimaginable rates.
Have fun dodging rocks and schralping not-so-soft-pow with the hordes!
ciao
chingis
Thanks Chingis,
Yes, the internet may be more accessible and up to date (the beauty of it really), but assessable to who? The majority of the people that visit this sight don’t live anywhere near our precious utopia. So it would take a serious ‘alpine-start’ (and expensive plane ticket) for them to get ahead of us in these couloirs. Also, the prudent ski-mountaineer gets an early-bird start…to ensure safe travel and first tracks.
I really fail to see what the big deal is about posting some pictures of skiing a couloir on the web. Maybe we should accost the authors who wrote about them (and started me dreaming) in the guidebooks in the first place. Personally, I think I first read about Mark Newcomb and Stephen Koch’s first descent back in the mid-90s…not skiing it for myself until 2000…I think. Apocalypse Couloir is not some secret ‘hidden’ garden that some may think. And as far as these pictures ruining the overall ‘experience’ one may have in skiing the Apocalypse? I doubt that.
Chingis, I am curious as to your view on the aspect of mountain guides to this argument. How are they immune to the guilt of giving up the goods? I could easily get pissed at the those I see guiding the steep couloirs of Garnet Canyon…or bitch and moan about them following my skin track up Wimpys…and taking MY powder!!! But I don’t. Most of the time I will even ski up to them and say ‘hey’, talk about skiing/conditions, or ask if I may pass them and break trail to the top.
Or how about ski photographers and videographers, who live their lives off of selling images of people skiing in remote, exotic, ‘sacred’ places. I just don’t see the difference in the big picture. And who is the ‘all-knower’ of what is sacred and what is not. What makes it OK to show images of one couloir but not the other?
Steve
I was inspired to ski the Grand from a photo and story of Bill Briggs doing it and am forever grateful to him for it. It was an excellent descent off of a great peak with a good group of friends and provided many happy memories. It was in 1995, so the damaging tracks are probably gone by now. Keep up the good work there Steve – if people want sacred, secret untouched peaks they should move to Bhutan. The Tetons are meant to be skied and enjoyed.
Thanks Andrew!
Like Tom Kimbrough says…”GTNP is a climbers and skiers park”.
Where are you now? BC…AK..or…Iran?
I guess it is a matter of scale. One day a saturation point will be reached where your user experience is diminished due to over population. For some of us that saturation point will happen at lower densties, and like mr mclean says, I guess it is jsut time for some of us to move to Bhutan.
I suppose philosophically I dont have too big a bone to pick with guide book authors and guides…I too have been inspired by photso and write ups…but there are elements of tact that and style that goes with the territory. The guide can take satisfaction in that they are taking someone to a cool place and that 9 times out of 10 the client will never be able to come back on their own, so will not be a factor in future use (for full instruction see NOLS…a whole other can of worms!). Plus I know plenty of guides who stick to standard routes and keep their mouths shut about more personal areas or endeavors. Or figure that they can take a client on a milk run, give them full value, and leave less trammeled areas for those who like exploring.
Likewise the tactful guidebook author generally takes some responsibility in tailoring the book to the specific scneario. There is an asthetic balance to be reached between giving up enough information to make the book useful, or giving up so much that there is no dreaming left to be done because there are photos and beta for every last little cranny. The ends of the spectrum are evident in the climbing world with the SuperTopo books and say Kelseys book to the Wind Rivers.
So I think more than arguing right or wrong, it would be more useful to approach from an asthetic standpoint. Is what you are doing tasteful, or over the top? Granted, for those of us who dont want the full info we shouldnt read you posts, or look at the pictures, but a good author tries to make the read enjoyable for everyone. Perhaps people who are more interested should e-mail you and you can tell them how tight and what color underwear they need to shred like you did.
Thanks
Chingis
I’ll save them the trouble…
…I don’t wear underwear! 😉
From personal experience, I’ve found that the people who whine the loudest usually ski the least.
Hey Chingis – In terms of scale, I consider this crowded:
http://www.sanosurf.com/img/101505b.jpg
And this uncrowded:
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/158/439119007_49ab62da0c_o.jpg
And this a ‘diminished aesthetic experience:’
http://forum.surfermag.com/photopost/data/505/98Surfing_Injury_01.JPG
Really, it’s such a blessing to live in those mountains. I hope you enjoy it and if you see another human out there why not say hi and maybe it will even improve your day instead of bumming you out.
Storn
Ouch!!!
Is that you in the pictures Storn?
Get well soon!!!
Holy crap!! Nice set of blogs, boyz. A real shit storm of opinion. Great to have industry celebs like Andrew chiming in, too. He’s forgotten about more steep lines than I ever hope to ski. Good perspective to share.
The long winded exchanges are great to have. Lots of thought and a healthy exchange of ideas. Clearly, there is no end, however, just like similar discussions beat down in the climbing world. The beautiful thing about the internet and sites like TetonAT is that the exchange happens quickly. Remember when you had to wait a month or more for the next issue of Climbing or Alpinist to catch the bitter punch throwing from one sponsored hero to another? Now, we, the regular guys, can go at it in near real time. Very entertaining and mostly civil. Thanks for keeping the gloves on. Keep pondering.
Now let’s all shut up for a day or two and go track up the freshies with which we have been blessed these last couple of days.
Oh no.. that’s not me. I just put those pictures up to illustrate what I was talking about. In surfing nowadays people are right on top of each other. Some people are learning and can’t, uhm, turn. Others are psycho. They all have sharp fins. It’s not always bad but you have to have a flexible schedule to catch a good spot uncrowded.
I can totally understand both those guys wanting to keep their special spots from turning into a zoo but coming from that environment I’d say the backcountry is pretty damn enjoyable!
Storn
Steve – I have a prize first descent in the Teton’s that is just waiting to be skied, photo’d, documented and hosted on TetonAT.
Starting bid is $500. 🙂
Meaning…
…you’ll give me $500 to ski and document it?
Great! 😉
Good conversation here. Glad to see that it has stayed civil…Just remeber that if you ever get sick of your “Crowded Lines” in the Jackson area, come to MT…We’ll make room. Glacier is 4.5 times bigger then GTNP, ~250 G bears, shitty rock, and over 1,000 inches of annual snowfall, and minimal winter access…adventures for anyone who is willing. Makes the Tetons sound like a cake walk eh?
over 1,000 inches of snowfall annually? cmon.
No bullshitting here…I said “average”. This takes in account historical data that has been collected since 1910. Winter aren’t the same anymore, but it’s still hella deep. See for yourself…
Finklin, A., 1986. A Climatic Handbook for Glacier National Park – with Data for Waterton Lakes National Park. Gen. Tech. Report INT-204; USDA Forest Service Intermountain Research Station, Ogden, UT.
Cheers
maybe back in the last iceage.
Wasn’t the largest snowflake ever recored found in Montana?
Awesome line! Nice work guys…
Interesting to read the responses to the “exposure” of this line…as a young skier aspiring to ski bigger, more technical lines, I find Steve’s website to be the most valuable resource imaginable- condition reports, practical advice, beta photos, it doesn’t really get much better than that…skiing in the Tetons is always adventurous for me, no matter how much or how little info I have prior to setting out for an objective, and to be honest, the information I’ve gained from this site has helped me to learn quite a bit about ski mountaineering…granted, a web blog is not going to make it safer out there, but as a young and dumb inexperienced skier, I’m psyched to have this resource solely on the grounds that it answers questions both big and small in regards to these amazing lines. Keep up the awesome work, Steve- it’s much appreciated!
Glad I can help with the inspiration Y&D…and good luck with your skimo career. Remember…
You don’t know…if you don’t go!!! 😀
Great Pic’s and Awesome Coulior….. Defininetly not for everyone and I feel this one is safe from being crowded!
Thanks, Andy Tretiakoff
Nice job documenting the couloir! I skied it yesterday and am considering re-naming it “abysmal” couloir considering how terrible the snow was and the shear amount of sluff and ice pellets that rained down on us the entire time.
[…] I skied Apocalypse Couloir with Harder last week. It was Brian’s first time skiing it and that gave me a good excuse to let him do most of the trail breaking. Thanks Bra! I also used it as a way to get my mind right so to speak and it was the first run on my new Black Diamond Stigma/Dynafit TLT Classic spring skiing setup. […]
What is bumburbia?
I’ve got to agree that this line is one of the most obvious in the park. After an aborted attempt on Mt Moran this weekend, I spotted this line on the drive back to Jackson and made plans to attempt it the next day.
If I can pick it out from the car on my first trip to the Tetons and identify it as being a sweet line with a relatively short approach, I suspect anyone can, which would hardly qualify this one as being a secret.